Grace Cook’s AW20 Trend Reflections
2020 has so far been a year unlike any other on record. Post pandemic, the world looks set to adjust to a “new normal.” But just what might that new normal look like? And how will that affect what we are wearing for Autumn/Winter 2020 and beyond?
After so much uncertainty and such an extended period of time spent at home, more than ever, comfort dressing will be key for this coming season. But this too will be of a ‘new’ variety — think less the hoodies and sweatpants that have dominated the fashion fore for the last few years, and more loose-cut trousers, pull-on jumpsuits and cosy knitwear in soft-touch fabrics — effortless, wardrobe staples that need little styling but still look sharp. DL1961 and Rails have both updated the classic boiler suit for AW20, in soft-touch denims that are fitted, and thus flattering, on the waist, but which feel like pyjamas when worn. The jumpsuit’s versatility for both smart and casual occasions — as well as days spent at home — will see it become a mainstay in wardrobes. So too, will the loose midi-dress and the co-ord enjoy a resurgence; Sand Copenhagen’s leopard print shirt dress will look just as good with a cardigan as it will with a pair of heels, as will Valle & Vik’s printed trousers and shirt set, which was inspired by the prints found at the Hotel Costes in Paris. Luxury day-to-night wear, indeed.
Accessorise-wise, we’re likely to see a shift towards ease, too. Bags that can be worn myriad ways, with a crossbody strap, will be key — months of leaving the house with only a bank card and house keys will refocus our idea of handbag essentials.
Bags will get smaller and more streamlined in design, with playful design details remaining key; New York label Apede Mod’s fragment moon bag, with its curved lines, is vintage in feel but modern in aesthetic, with adjustable leather-rope straps that are more comfortable on the shoulder than a curb-chain. Smart flat shoes, rather than sneakers, will prove popular, as more offices continue to work from home.
Shoppers will be more mindfully buying than ever, so as an ode to timelessness, colours will be understated and earthy; think browns, blues, olives and ecrus — hues that draw from the landscape and that will feel appropriate season after season. 0711 Tbilisi’s palette of mossy greens and mocha browns offer a warm update on the traditional winter shades, which will still feel relevant come next spring. This season, the brand introduced vegan leathers into the collection for the first time, which represents the growing shift towards sustainability which will continue to prove more salient than ever.
Innovative use of materials will continue to drive the industry, as it searches for eco alternatives to traditional fabrications. New York label DL1961 continues to lead the charge for clean denims, using recycled water, organic dyes and recycling fabric scraps and combining them with wood pulp to create a new Tencell material — it’s used for the label’s signature Hepburn wide leg and Gwen camo jogger. Recycling has become something of a mainstay in luxury, especially waste ocean plastics; this season, Scultura’s graphic gym kits are crafted from it, while Sand Copenhagen has turned into a blazer. And Wolf & Gypsy’s astrological talismans are made exclusively from recycled gold and silver. Fashion with a feelgood factor has never felt so apt.